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Succulents are not just plants; they're living pieces of art that can thrive with the right care and attention. If you're a succulent enthusiast, you've come to the right place! In this comprehensive guide, we'll cover everything you need to know about succulent care from a horticulture professional with over 10 years of experience. Succulents were the first category I managed when I joined the operations team while I was working for a very large and well-known commercial grower in the US. Whether you're a seasoned succulent grower or a beginner, these tips will help you keep your succulents healthy and vibrant. Let's dive in! The Origins of Succulents Succulents have ancient origins dating back to a time when Earth's climate was vastly different from what we know today. These hardy plants evolved in regions characterized by extended dry periods, fierce sun, and limited water resources. Succulents stand out as remarkable survivors of arid landscapes. Their ability to thrive in regions where rain is scarce and drought is a common occurrence is a testament to their remarkable adaptation over millions of years. Unique Characteristics & Water Storing Adaptation To care for succulents effectively, it's crucial to understand their unique characteristics. One of the most distinctive features of succulents is their capacity to store water. Over time, these plants have developed specialized structures for water storage, such as thick, fleshy leaves, stems, or roots. These adaptations allow succulents to store water during rainy seasons and rely on these reserves during prolonged periods of drought. Reduced Leaf Surface Area Succulents have reduced the size of their leaves or even evolved into spine-like structures to minimize water loss through transpiration. This adaptation allows them to conserve water efficiently in dry climates. Shallow Roots and Efficient Water Uptake Succulents often have shallow root systems that can quickly absorb moisture from even the lightest rain or dew. Their roots are designed to take advantage of sporadic rainfall, making the most of every drop. CAM Photosynthesis Many succulents employ Crassulacean Acid Metabolism (CAM) photosynthesis, a unique adaptation that enables them to open their stomata and perform photosynthesis at night when temperatures are cooler and moisture loss is minimized. This efficient use of water sets succulents apart from many other plants. Succulent Care Tips 101 Light: Succulents need plenty of sunlight. Place them where they can receive at least 6 hours of indirect sunlight per day. South or west-facing windows are ideal. Do not place them in a dark or humid bathroom. If your succulent is not getting enough direct light it will become elongated or leggy and will turn towards the light (phototropism). Therefore, we recommend rotating your succulents. Watering: Overwatering is one of the most common mistakes in succulent care. Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings. Water sparingly, usually once every 2-4 weeks, depending on your environment and the container size. Water thoroughly when you do, making sure the water drains out of the bottom of the pot if it's not in an arrangement. Make sure you water the soil, not the leaves or crown as this could lead to root rot. Pot and Soil: Use a well-draining soil mix specifically designed for succulents and cacti. Ensure the pot has drainage holes to prevent water from accumulating at the bottom, which can lead to root rot. If your arrangement doesn't have holes water lightly, remember Succulents absorb moisture from even the slightest bit of water. Temperature and Humidity: Succulents generally prefer temperatures between 60-80°F (15-27°C). They can tolerate lower temperatures but should be protected from frost. Succulents are adapted to low humidity, so they are suitable for dry indoor environments. Fertilizing: Fertilize sparingly during the growing season (spring and summer) with a balanced, diluted fertilizer. Avoid fertilizing during the dormant season (fall and winter). Pruning and Maintenance: Remove dead or yellowing leaves to promote new growth. Some succulents may need occasional shaping or thinning. Usually, you will need to remove dry leaves from the lower crown to keep your plants looking fresh. I use a tweezer to make this easier. Pests and Diseases: Look for common pests like mealybugs and spider mites. Treat infestations promptly with insecticidal soap or neem oil (avoid if plant is in direct sun). Avoid overwatering to prevent root rot and fungal issues. Container Selection: Choose pots that allow for growth as succulents can become root-bound. Transplant them into larger pots when they outgrow their current container. Propagation: Many succulents can be propagated from leaves or stem cuttings. This is a fun way to create new plants. Seasonal Changes: Some succulents may go through a dormant period, during which they require less water and sunlight. Adjust your care routine accordingly. Succulent Flowering and Changing Colors Not all succulents are equal when it comes to flowering. Some species are more prone to blooming than others. If you're specifically interested in enjoying the blossoms, consider succulents like Echeveria, Kalanchoe, and Sedum, which are known for their impressive flowers. Succulents require plenty of sunlight to thrive and eventually bloom. Succulents generally prefer warm temperatures, but many of them require a period of cooler temperatures to initiate flowering. Mimicking their natural environment is key. During the spring and early summer, when many succulents typically bloom, ensure the temperature remains between 60°F to 80°F (15°C to 27°C). Avoid extreme temperature fluctuations that can stress the plant. Succulents can indeed change color in response to various environmental factors, including heat, cold, and stress. This color change is often a protective mechanism and can vary depending on the specific succulent species. Here's some information to help you understand why succulents may turn red or change color due to these factors: Heat Stress: When exposed to intense sunlight or high temperatures, some succulents may develop red or purple hues as a natural response to protect themselves from excess sun exposure. This coloration is often caused by the production of pigments like anthocyanins. Cold Stress: Cold temperatures can also affect succulent coloration. Some succulents may turn red or purple when exposed to cold conditions, which is thought to be a way to absorb more sunlight and warmth. This can be especially noticeable during cooler seasons. Stress: Stress factors such as insufficient water, physical damage, or environmental changes can lead to color changes in succulents. Stress often triggers the production of protective pigments, leading to red or other color variations. It's important to note that not all succulents will respond the same way to these stressors, and the degree of color change can vary between species. Some common succulents known for changing color under stress include Kalanchoe Echeveria and Sedum. Succulents Fun Facts: All cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. The Roman Emperor Charlemagne made everyone grow succulents on their roof because it was believed to bring prosperity and keep you safe. The species Sempervivum tectorum means 'always alive on the roof.' Jade is a symbol of good luck and wealth in some Asian traditions and is also known as The Money Tree.

Imagine your plants as if they were babies, nurtured in their nursery pots just like they were in the womb. When is it time to repot? There comes a time when babies must leave their wombs, and the same principle applies to our botanical offspring or plant babies. Although they may thrive in their initial nursery pots for years, eventually they must be repotted or transplanted to larger containers. Typically, it's recommended to choose a pot that's around 1 to 2 inches larger in diameter than the current pot size. The roots are extending out through the drainage hole(s) located at the base of the nursery pot or planter. This may be a sign of a root-bound plant. As roots expand, they gradually displace the soil within the container, potentially occupying more room than the soil volume itself. The emergence of visible roots at the soil's surface or bottom of the nursery pot serves as an indicator that your plant is nearing, if not already experiencing, a root-bound condition. You may also see signs of yellowing or wilting leaves. The plant's foliage is more than double the size of its nursery pot. The plant is extremely top-heavy, and may topple over easily. The plant's potting mix becomes compact and is drying out more quickly than before requiring more frequent waterings. Soil compaction can lead to inefficiencies or root death and could be due to poor soil/substrate. Make sure to select the right time. The best time to repot a plant is during its active growing season, typically in spring or summer. This gives the plant a chance to recover quickly. What is soil compaction? Soil compaction occurs when soil particles are pressed together, reducing pore space between them. It becomes so compact that it can suffocate the roots due to lack of oxygen. You can aerate the soil using the chopstick method, but when the soil becomes too dense and compact, it's best to repot and replace it with a sustainable substrate that will not suffer from soil compaction. We aren't dirtbags With over a decade of experience in the horticulture industry, I gained a profound understanding of the significance of utilizing an aerated and organic potting medium. Aroids, in particular, need an aerated potting medium. Most aroids like Philodendrons, Monsteras, and Anthuriums are epiphytic and not terrestrial, so they grow and anchor themselves on trees having exposed roots with little to no soil. Most store-bought potting mix is mainly peat-based and becomes compact, suffocating the roots and not allowing for even distribution of water. Peat moss is not considered a renewable source, and many store-bought mixes have added junk and fillers like plastic. Our potting medium is organic, renewable, and naturally made from coconut coir, horticulture charcoal, and perlite. It's essentially a "soil-less" medium. Coconut coir comes from the coconut's husk. In addition to its renewable nature, coconut coir offers several advantages. It facilitates aeration and creates an optimal setting for plant roots, ensuring they receive appropriate levels of water, air, and nutrients. Furthermore, it provides ample room for roots to thrive and extend their growth. Perlite is a core ingredient for epiphytes in that it dramatically boosts the ability of plants to produce the healthiest root system possible. It helps with aeration and allows root systems to function more efficiently; nutrients are accessed in more significant quantities and help avoid root rot. What you will need A potting mat or surface you can wipe clean Our sustainable coconut coir base potting media 'Earth's Coir' Gloves, if you're handling a plant with spines such as a cactus A watering can or sink faucet Pruners to cut any dead roots or foliage The nursery pot you will be potting into You may also need: Plant stake or moss pole if your plant has gotten top-heavy or needs support A large spoon or a hand shovel/scoop (or just use your hands) Repotting steps Here are the ideal steps for repotting Philodendrons, Monsteras, Alocasias, Anthuriums, succulents, and more: 1. Remove the plant from its current nursery pot. Turn the pot upside down while supporting the base of the plant or tilt your plant sideways, remember to hold it by the stems or leaves, be careful to not break any of the foliage or stem. Next, tap the bottom of the nursery pot until the plant slides out. Occasionally, a slight pull on the stem base might be necessary to assist in this process. If the plant is firmly held, tap the pot repeatedly to gradually loosen its grip. 2. Lightly Loosen the roots Gently disentangle the plant's roots using your hands if you notice the roots are root bound. If your plant is root bound—the roots are growing in very tight circles around the base of the plant—unbind the roots as best you can and give them a trim. You can prune off any threadlike roots that are extra long, just make sure to leave the thicker roots at the base of the foliage. Inspect your roots! Trim any brown, mushy, or damaged roots with clean scissors or pruning shears (make sure to disinfect with alochol after each use.) Do not remove all the existing soil or rinse the roots. 3. Remove most old potting mix Eliminate approximately one-third of the old potting mix from the nursery pot. As your plant has grown, it may have depleted some or all of the nutrients in the existing mix. Therefore, providing it with a fresh potting mix is ideal. 4. Add our sustainable coconut coir potting media 'Earth's Coir' Hold your empty nursery pot down and pour a layer of fresh potting substrate into the empty planter. Don't pack it too tight, but make sure it's not too loose either. 5. Add your plant to your new (or repurposed) nursery pot Make sure the new nursery pot has drainage holes to prevent overwatering. If you are repurposing an old nursery pot, make sure that it's clean and disinfected. Place your plant onto the newly added layer of substrate within the nursery pot, ensuring it's positioned at the center. Check that the top of the root ball is about a half inch below the rim of the new pot. Be sure not to pack too much into the planter: you want the roots to have space to breathe. 6. Water Even out the potting media and water all around! Water the plant thoroughly until you see water draining out of the bottom. This helps settle the soil and ensures the roots make good contact with the new mix. 7. Aftercare: Place the repotted plant in a location that suits its light and temperature needs. Avoid direct sunlight for a few days to reduce stress. Resume regular care routine, including watering as needed. Note that a freshly repotted plant does not need to be fed liquid fertilizer, but you can add a slow-release fertilizer before watering. Keep in mind, different plants have different repotting and watering needs, so be sure to research the specific requirements of your plant type before beginning the process (our instructions are for indoor plants, annuals and perennials for example have different potting needs. Repotting not only allows your plants to grow healthy, but also refreshes the soil nutrients, promoting their overall well-being.

Many of us want to get out and garden as the days warm up, but some of us have limited space. Container gardening, which is growing in a pot instead of growing in the ground, is the ideal solution for those of us who have a small patio or don't have a lot of outdoor or indoor space. Some gardeners want to enjoy the blooms and colors of spring without all the work. Purchasing a ready-made garden like the Better Together garden by Dummen Orange is an incredible hack to add pops of color to your space without all the mess. Redfin shares experts' container garden top tips and tricks Redfin, the home specialists, recently reached out to experts across the country for their best container gardening tips on how to plant perennials, native varieties, fruit trees, and more. When they reached out to me for tips on the ideal potting mix, I was happy to share what I've learned working in the horticulture industry over the years. You can read many of the tips and tricks here. Designer hack, you'll wish you knew sooner. If you decide to plant your own outdoor container garden, keep in mind the tip shared by Redfin experts; use similar plants to make plant care easier. All the garden experts use the same hack when it comes to design! They use the thriller, filler, and spiller design concepts. Thrillers are the focal point of your container garden. Tall, bold ornamental grasses or salvia are often used to add a vertical visual. Fillers are placed to fill the space around the thriller plants and the pot. Filler plants are usually bushy or mounding varieties like petunias. Spiller plants spill over the container and cascade down the pot as your plant continues to grow. Calibrachoa or trailing begonias are ideal for recreating this look. You don't always have to incorporate all three, but using at least two of these will result in a more polished look. Can I container garden inside with houseplants? You can easily create an indoor container garden; it's the style hack many interior designers use to spruce up a home during spring or summer. Exotic tropical houseplants make a striking statement in container gardens, and you only need one! Exotic plants are the easiest and most exclusive way to bring nature into our home and build that indoor jungle. Where is the best location? Near south or east-facing window is best. Most tropicals thrive in bright indoor lighting near south, southeast, or east-facing windows with 5-6 hours of bright light. You want to avoid north-facing unless you can supplement with bright artificial lighting. Near your home's entrance is another good location. Placing container plants near the entryway invites positive energy into your space. Plants make excellent home decor and have many benefits, such as air purification. How to make a statement? Be bold and make an impact with one large statement piece in the room. Creating a lush tropical space with Alocasia, Philodendron, or Monstera container gardens is easy. Alocasias, Philodendrons, and Monsteras (found here) can all grow large in size. Pair it with neutral containers so the room and foliage are the focal points. Don't be messy! One of the many benefits of indoor container gardening is the lack of clean-up required. Container gardening indoors is as easy as placing a nursery potted houseplant into a ceramic, stone, or terracotta pot. You can complete the look by top dressing with moss or rocks.

The Alocasia genus encompasses some of the most spectacular and rare foliage within the Aroid family. Its mesmerizing corrugated leaves and mostly dark foliage with deep veneition are sculptural works of art. Some of our shop rare staples are the Alocasia cuprea, Alocasia 'Dragon Scale', Alocasia 'Black Velvet,' and Alocasia 'Dragon's Breath.' Our shop favorites are the variegated varieties! The intricate variegation patterns on Alocasia leaves, a remarkable manifestation of epigenetic control and cellular differentiation, not only serve adaptive purposes but also present themselves as living works of art, akin to a painter's palette that captivates both biologists and aesthetes alike. From a scientific standpoint, variegation in plants such as Alocasias can be explained through a variety of factors. Some types of variegation are a result of cell mutations or epigenetic control, where DNA methylation or histone modification leads to the selective expression or suppression of genes that control pigment production in specific cell populations. Their captivating patterns can be seen as nature's own compositions, akin to abstract paintings that hold their viewer's attention. For some, the experience of observing such naturally occurring designs may even evoke a sense of awe or wonder, much like one might experience in an art gallery. Thus, the aesthetics of variegated Alocasias offer a harmonious blend of science and art, inviting us to appreciate the complexities of biology through a lens of aesthetic admiration. which you can shop for our Alocasias here. However, Alocasia doesn't come without drama! So what's the drama? Alocasia can be prone to foliage discoloration, droopy foliage, and sometimes pest pressures. They can also go dormant in the winter, prompting people to throw them out thinking they are dead. This sounds overwhelming, but it's not if you follow my tips and tricks. I've learned over the last decade from killing plenty of Alocasias in my home and commercially, how to get them to thrive. If properly cared for, Alocasias can be very rewarding! Where do Alocasias originate from? Alocasias are known to grow covered under tree canopies where they aren't exposed to direct sunlight. They are endemic to tropical rainforests in Southeast Asia. There are over 100 known species. Some species are compact and enjoyed today as indoor plants, while others are large, regal, and widely used in landscapes across Florida and warmer regions. Where should I keep my Alocasia and how much light does it need? Alocasias should be placed in a medium to bright location but out of direct sun. Darker Alocasias like Alocasia cuprea need more shade since the leaves can burn or discolor if placed in direct sunlight. Make sure to keep them away from drafts and do not place them in front of an AC/heater vent. I keep my Alocasia 'Dragon's Breath' on our kitchen counter and my Alocasia cuprea in the bathroom where I have windows, and it gets lots of humidity. Some people put them in domes, cloches, terrariums, near a humidifier, or place them on humidity trays (pebbles submerged in a few inches of water). This isn't necessary but can help your Alocasia thrive if it's drying out too much. How often should I water? Alocasias shouldn't be watered based on a schedule but their environment. An alocasia kept near a bright window in a hot room, or a lanai will need to be watered more often than one in a colder room. Water your Alocasia when the top layer of the potting medium has dried. Unlike other Aroids, they prefer to be a kept moist (she's a thirsty one!) However, do not overwater, as they can be prone to root rot. Alternatively, do not let it dry out completely, or it can stress the plant, which could lead to pest pressures and droopy leaves. Make sure to clean the leaves when you water; the front and back of the leaves! Yes, they are high-maintenance drama queens! If all of this stresses you out, try a self-watering pot and moisture meter for precision. Humidity is crucial for Alocasias. They need above average humidity (60%+). Alocasia leaves can wrinkle or dry, and they can be prone to spider mites if the air is too dry. Should I fertilize? Yes, Alocasias benefit from fertilization. You can fertilize throughout spring and summer and cut back in the fall as the days get shorter (unless you have greenhouse conditions.) I recommend new plant parents start with a slow-release fertilizer, and experienced enthusiasts can use a slow-release and houseplant fertilizer. Remember to follow the manufacturer's instructions and less is more! Do I need to repot? Most plants can go months or a year without repotting. However, many Alocasias are grown in a heavier mix and can be repotted after being acclimated at home. Many will come with a nursery mesh plug that can be removed during repotting. Make sure to loosen the soil and use an airy potting medium that allows the water to drain correctly. We have an excellent "soilless potting medium," or you can make your own using Coco Coir, Perlite, Orchid Bark, Horticultural Charcoal, and add Rice Hulls if you have them. Why are my Alocasia leaves droopy and damaged? Some Alocasia varieties ship better than others. Alocasia Dragon Scale ships well, for example. Alocasia Silver Dragon can suffer some shipping stress, resulting in droopy leaves upon delivery. Check the potting medium; if it's very dry, give it a deep soak in its nursery pot. Water all around the pot, not just in one area, and make sure to let all of the water drain out completely—place in a bright spot where it's not exposed to direct sun. If your plant's leaves begin to droop after being in your care for some time, move it closer to a light source and make sure that water is reaching the roots. Sometimes if the soil becomes too compact, it's not allowing the roots to receive water. You can use a chopstick to aerate the soil or repot. Make sure to check for pests, specifically spider mites. You can use your phone's magnifier because sometimes they can be invisible to the naked eye. Webbing around the plant's sinus is also a sign of mites. If you have spider mites, you will most likely have further leaf damage, not just droopy leaves. Why are my Alocasia leaves yellow? There are many reasons why your leaves are yellowing. One of the most common reasons is watering. It could be too little water, but chances are you are overwatering. Alocasia leaves also turn yellow if they're rootbound and possibly growing too big for their pot. Yellowing leaves in ring form could signal bigger issues like a fungal infection that can be treated with a fungicide. My Alocasia has dropped all of its leaves; is it dead? No, your Alocasia is not dead unless you have major root damage. Alocasias drop their leaves when stressed or not receiving optimal care. In the winter, your Alocasia may also drop all of its leaves, even indoors Both smaller plants shown lost all of their leaves and grew back two new baby leaves a few weeks ago as the days got warmer. New leaf growth will usually come from the stem of another leaf. Your Alocasia will grow back when exposed to light and warmth. If you are willing to have pots laying around with no leaves and just roots, you will be pleasantly surprised one day when a new baby leaf pops right out! Not all alocasias go dormant, if you're providing your plant enough light, humidity, and warmth it will continue to grow even if it's artificial (grow lights, humidifier, etc.) Check out the quick care guide below for more tips. Alocasia Quick Guide: Easy-Care Index: Moderate to difficult Plant Parent Index: Experienced enthusiasts, collectors Humidity Index: High; 60%+ (average 70%) Water: Water when the potting medium has dried. Do not keep wet, but do not let dry out completely Potting Medium: Airy soilless potting medium; coconut coir, bark, perlite Fertilize: Spring through summer. Slow-release and/or houseplant fertilizer per manufacturer's instructions Care Hack/Tools: Moisture meter, self-watering pot, humidifier

There are two schools of thought when it comes to rare plants. The OG collector that's been collecting for years and put forth a great deal of effort to curate their collection. The other is the newbie collector accustomed to seeing so-called "rare plants" at big box stores. They tend to be more skeptical about rare plant collecting. Denise (pictured above) from @tropicalseductions has been curating her collection for a few years. She’s a collector and an explorer with a large Instagram following. Denise brings some insight into how she feels about rare plants. Plant The Jungle (Damarys): When did you start collecting plants? Tropical Seductions (Denise): If we go back to my very first plant purchase, then I would have to say as a child. I loved adding tiny cactuses to my windowsills. My mom usually took on the duty of watering them. It seems I always loved adding green into my life. Plant The Jungle (Damarys): Have you always been into rare plants? How did you discover rare plants? Tropical Seductions (Denise): When I started to collect plants I was drawn immediately to tropical plants. I started with a Philodendron green congo. At that time in 2018, I wasn’t aware that there is a world of “Rare Plants”. And then I joined the Plant Community on Instagram and never looked back. Plant The Jungle (Damarys): Your content and reels are so much fun and really engaging! Some of your best reels are you clapping back when people comment on the retail price of your plants. Do you get a lot of those types of comments? Tropical Seductions (Denise): It's definitely manageable. Most of the comments are directed towards the market and people use my videos as an outlet to place their frustration on the incredibly high prices that sometimes seem outrageous. Yes, sometimes it is a personal attack and then I feel entitled to delete the comment or even block the account. Plant The Jungle (Damarys): What are your thoughts on people that say rare plants are just a marketing gimmick to overprice plants? Tropical Seductions (Denise): Yes, I somewhat agree. There aren’t really many plants truly rare. There are plants that are commercially rare, meaning the demand is higher than the product available. This is obviously not what we mean when using the term “rare”. Plant The Jungle (Damarys): You’ve visited a lot of rare plants shops, nurseries, and greenhouses. What surprised you the most when you visited these places for the first time? Tropical Seductions (Denise): The sheer amount of plants available surprised me. There isn’t a plant shortage and plants are grown, propagated, and tissue cultured in mass. Plant The Jungle (Damarys) Having created the first rare plant collection for big box stores, the program was intended to bring rare plants to mass-markets. Once these rare plants become massed produced, indeed, they are no longer rare as Denise mentioned. However, just because you can find a plant at your local nursery doesn't mean it's not rare. Most local nurseries aren't purchasing in scale. Rare plants tend to be more expensive locally because they may be challenging to grow or take longer to produce. They may also be challenging to source for smaller growers; it is more costly when starter material is purchased in small quantities. Larger growers have access to tissue culture labs making it more affordable and quicker to market. Therefore, larger growers are able to commercialize rare plants in large quantities. So, what is the definition of rare? Something is rare when it is seldom occurring or found; this could be defined as seldom occurring in your area or uncommon to your part of the world. Rare can also be identified by something unusual in quality or appeal. Rare plants do exist! There are rare plant conservatories and conservationists all over the world. Fairchild Botanical Garden in Miami has one of the best aroid rare plant conservatories I've visited. I was also invited to attend their Million Orchid Project earlier this year which focuses on rare orchids. I had a chance to talk with Dr. Carle E. Lewis (pictured above) in charge of The Million Orchid Project. He informed me that they are working to re-introduce rare and endangered orchids into South Florida's urban landscape. During the last decade, South Florida used to be an orchid paradise, orchids could be found hanging off every tree branch. In the late 1800s, as the Florida East Coast Railroad extended south, orchids were among the first to be exploited, poached, and commercialized. Dr. Carle E. Lewis, in charge of The Million Orchid Project, informed me that to date, they have been able to reintroduce almost half a million orchids! I also met and plan to collaborate with Pablo Garcia Brenes (pictured above), a rare plant conservationist from Wild Tropicals in Costa Rica. Pablo and Cristel Miranda (pictured above) Monestel, their breeder, are focused on conserving rare plants endemic to Costa Rica. Thus far, they have identified 280 rare plant species with market potential. Globalization, commercialization, and the rare plant craze have allowed many of us to enjoy rare plants from across the world. The quest to discover new species is ongoing and insatiable for some. This is why partnering with Wild Tropicals is essential; while they focus on identifying rare plants endemic to Costa Rica, their core value is sustainability and preservation. I will personally be traveling back to Colombia in November. Colombia is well known as one of the most aroid-rich countries in the world. They have identified over 500 species, making it one of my favorite places to visit to discover rare plants.

Most people would think you were crazy if you told them you spent $10k on a houseplant, but what if it's a rare exotic houseplant? Does that make it any more reasonable? Collecting rare plants is a passion and a thrill that can't be rationalized or explained. Some have compared it to collecting the hottest new sneakers. Sellers have traded up from sneakerheads to hoyaheads because they say it's more lucrative. Now you have people selling plants that know nothing about growing them commercially. At this year's International Aroid Society Show at Fairchild Tropical Garden located in Miami, which I attended, several one-leaf cuttings sold for $200 - $1,000 depending on the species. A Philodendron Caramel Marble was selling for $13,000! I’ve been in the industry for years and have attended tradeshows all over the country and in Europe. This is the highest I have seen prices in 10 years! Some industry insiders believe prices will continue to rise, while many plantfluencers are talking about prices falling. Rare plant collecting shouldn't be like fast fashion or the latest trend, though. It's a hobby that connects you with nature, brings a biophilic design into your home, and has many other benefits (mindfulness and air purification.) We need to consider that some rare plants are endangered; make sure you aren't purchasing a plant on the endangered list and that your plant is responsibly sourced or grown. Some rare plants like the Monstera Albo Variegata (pictured above from our collection), native to Colombia and parts of Mexico, bring an exotic and lush look and feel into your surroundings that can't be matched. The Philodendron Florida Beauty with variegated lobed leaves are captivating. Both of these plants are pretty exclusive and expensive right now. The Aglaonema Pictum Tri-Color or Camouflage Plant (pictured above from @greenhousegirl94 collections) is breathtaking and helps you acknowledge how unique and adaptive nature truly is. And, the Philodendron Spiritus Santi is the crown jewel for collectors because of its elongated lobes and distinct features. You can shop these varieties here. Rare plant collecting, particularly Aroids, has become a big trend, though. For some new collectors (don't dare compare it to old vs. new money), it is all about Instagram and having the latest and rarest species that aren't in mass production or come from TC (tissue culture.) Once the plant is mass-produced, they move on to something else. This is what happened with the Raven® ZZ. Ravens were in high demand when they were scarce; now, they are available at every big-box retailers and aren't as exclusive or in demand. I developed the Trending Tropicals® brand to bring rare plants to mass retailers but didn't realize it would create such a frenzy in the plant community. The recent Thai Constellation market test caused complete chaos in the pacific northwest. According to a PDS Scientist and Microbiome, store workers were harassed by hundreds of people trying to get this limited edition variety. I've done extensive research during new plant introductions, from in-home studies to in-store shop along, market surveys, and test-and-learns, to determine price elasticity based on demand. Many people ask why rare plant prices are so high yet so affordable at big-box retailers. Established growers have economies of scale and access to faster propagation methods such as tissue culture. Retailers play the most significant role when it comes to pricing. They want to price-match their competitors across the street and keep prices low. Retailers also have sales and consumer insights that inform the ceiling price for a houseplant. A collector may walk into an independent shop and pay upwards of $500 for a truly rare plant. Big box retailers know their average consumer will not pay that, and once plants are massed produced, they aren't rare any longer. Keep in mind the grower does not set the price (they make recommendations based on margins); the retailer does. Retailers have a lot of leverage! You will find if you purchase directly from a large grower, pricing is set higher than big box store prices. Plants also became available via e-commerce over the last few years. This gave wholesalers direct access to consumers. They disrupted the supply chain and retail process and started selling direct. With greater access to plants, many novices, enthusiasts, and seasoned plant people started selling plants as well. During the lockdown, people wanted to bring nature in and became obsessed with plants. They had an insatiable demand for houseplants. Growers couldn’t keep up. Many of those increased prices resulted from “plant flippers” buying up the inventory and reselling. These prices weren’t reflective of the actual product cost, and now that supply has increased, flippers have less opportunity because consumers have greater access to plants. Also, you may have purchased a rare plant, not in mass production and the small grower's pricing is very different when purchasing and buying small quantities of a rare plant. Once that plant becomes readily available and mass-produced, material cost also decreases (while labor may not.) Contract growers or small sellers don’t have economies of scale or retail contracts, so not everyone is price gouging; they don’t have the same cost structure. I interviewed Gretchen Mason, who runs @greenhousegirl94 on Instagram, and worked at a greenhouse for years. During the pandemic, Gretchen was working at Merrifield Garden Center, a family-owned and operated, full-service garden center and nursery. Plant The Jungle (Damarys): How long did you work for Merrifield? Greenhousegirl94 (Gretchen): I worked in the tropical greenhouse for a little over four years. It’s a 20,000 square foot full-service greenhouse that stocks everything from basic foliage to seasonal specialty plants like Poinsettia and Mums. My responsibilities included assisting customers in making plant selections, unloading the delivery trucks, reconciling purchase orders with invoices, and caring for thousands of plants. We also created custom dish gardens and had a repotting service. Needless to say, we were always busy! Plant The Jungle (Damarys): Would you consider yourself a plant collector? If so, how many plants do you own, and how long have you been collecting? Greenhousegirl94 (Gretchen): I purchased my first houseplant in fifth grade, which was a very long time ago! It was a Golden Pothos, and my second plant was a pink Fittonia. Ever since, I’ve had houseplants wherever I lived, including in my dimly lit freshman college dorm room, which was a bit challenging. I always had lots of plants but my collection grew by leaps and bounds during the years I worked in the greenhouse. It was just too tempting to not bring something home at the end of the day, especially with the generous employee discount we received! At one point, I had well over 200 plants but I’ve scaled back recently so it’s probably more in the area of 150 plants at the moment. Plant The Jungle (Damarys): What was it like working at the greenhouse during the pandemic? Greenhousegirl94 (Gretchen): Two words come to mind: challenging and frustrating. Demand already exceeded supply in the months prior to the pandemic. Not only could you not find houseplants at your local garden center but you also couldn't find them at big box stores, grocery stores, or discount stores. All those outlets were competing for plants and social media platforms like Facebook and Instagram added fuel to the fire. The minute someone posted a new “it” plant on social media, everyone just had to have it. Plants were flying out the door the minute we priced them. Life was good! As most people already know everything pretty much came to a halt when the mandatory shutdown of businesses was announced in March 2020. People quarantined at home became restless; they wanted plants! The greenhouse is part of a garden center deemed essential by our state government so we stayed open throughout the pandemic. Many small growers shut down as did many commercial transport services. Suddenly, there weren’t plants available and often there weren’t trucks available to deliver them. After a few weeks, some growers opened back up with limited staff and limited availability. We were constantly getting “zeroed out,” which means plants that we ordered wouldn’t show up on the delivery truck. Add to that the fact that manufacturing and warehouses shut down, severely limiting the supply of soils, fertilizers, pots, and all hard goods. This was the hard part to explain to customers. Thanks to Amazon, Uber Eats, and other online shopping services, consumers are used to pushing a button and getting what they want. It just doesn’t work that way with plants. People couldn’t understand why we weren’t stocked to capacity and couldn’t deliver the “wish list” plants they desired. Many of my coworkers who had been in the business for 30 years plus said they never saw anything like it and don’t ever want to see anything Ike it again. Plant The Jungle (Damarys): Did you find prices were at an all-time high? Have you noticed prices coming down or are they still higher than in previous years? I saw a recent Instagram story where a camouflage plant you wanted was around $65 and you were surprised it was so high. Greenhousegirl94 (Gretchen): Plant prices skyrocketed during the months that non-essential businesses were closed. I remember at one point we had nothing on our Pothos benches. No Golden, Marble Queen, Neon or Jade Pothos could be found. Those plants are our bread and butter because they’re easy to grow and usually a good value. We had to buy from alternate sources, paying more than double the normal wholesale price. At one point we had 4” Golden Pothos retailing for $24.99 when they had been $12.99 a few months earlier. They all sold within a week. Ten-inch hanging basket Boston Ferns jumped from $29.99 to $34.99 and $39.99 and were nowhere near as full as they had been a few months earlier. They disappeared the minute we unloaded them from the trucks. Many customers complained that we were “price gouging” but our markup was exactly what it had been in the past. Our prices to consumers were higher because we were paying more for the plants. Personally, I don’t see plant prices across the board dropping to or below where they were pre-pandemic. There has been an overall shift in prices and, while I believe we have hit the top of the price curve I just don’t see prices dipping below pre-pandemic levels. As for that gorgeous Homalomena Camouflage plant, it was a plant I had admired for months but hadn’t seen available commercially. I was shocked when I saw a small 4” priced at $65! But after researching what similar plants are priced at on Etsy, I realized that price is not at all out of line! I was also able to determine that the wholesale cost of the plant was in line with the $65 retail price so I purchased one for my own collection. I’m a good salesperson, even when selling things to myself! I agree with Gretchen that some plant prices have decreased slightly, and demand has dropped as people are traveling more now that pandemic travel restrictions have loosened. Plants showing up at retailers now have been in production for at least a year, if not longer, depending on the variety. Their material and labor cost were forecasted well before this demand drop. Retail prices, forecasts and production plans are done years in advance depending on plant grow times (these are living things, not packaged goods; you need time to grow and supply millions across the country). I also agree with Gretchen that while there may be a bit of a correction in pricing, we will not see pre-pandemic prices for some time. I will be attending the IAS show this weekend at Fairchild Tropical Garden, along with probably thousands of collectors. It will be interesting to see if prices are lower than earlier this year during the peak demand period. Will collectors and enthusiasts still be inclined to pay thousands for a plant? I hope enthusiasts and future collectors will make the distinction between collecting plants and sneakers or cards. Plants are living things! Hopefully, if you do get into collecting rare plants, you become a good plant parent once you realize how rewarding and unique your new plant baby can be regardless of cost. UPDATE OCT. 2022 I visited IAS after writing this blog and witnessed that many of the prices have come down significantly and stabilized. There is a sizable drop in rare plant prices across the country. Thankfully, I have always been able to keep pricing fair but can now offer some of the lowest prices I've ever had in my shop. Follow @plantthejungle for more and check out our collections before you go. Thank you for reading and supporting a small Latina-owned business!

There is no comparing fake plants to real plants! Live plants reconnect us with nature, tap into our desire to nurture, and are truly decorative. I received much engagement on our Instagram reel about how you develop relationships with real plants in a way that you can’t with fake plants. You nurture a living plant by helping it grow, and when your plant baby gets sick, it's personal. Plants bring us a sense of joy that comes from surrounding ourselves with living things. They also give back by helping with productivity, alleviating stress, and purifying the air. Marie Kondo would agree that plants spark joy! In fact, Marie Kondo once posted a rant on Instagram about fake plants. She didn't like the idea of artificial plants and suggested that people buy real plants! Plants are also an investment that can be sold or better yet, shared and passed down from generation to generation. As plants grow, they become a natural decor element that can sometimes become works of art. Plants are a natural part of our ecosystem, while most fake plants made from plastic will end up in a landfill. Many fake plants are made from toxic plastic; although some are silks, those are more expensive and still don’t bring the benefits of real plants. Google searches for fake plants are almost as high as houseplants. Searches like "fake plants you'll love" or "real-looking fake plants" rank very high. So what is the real deal? Do fake plants have a place in our homes? They really shouldn’t, and many real plants aren’t challenging to grow at all. Below are low-fail houseplants to get you started with the real thing. These are also referred to as easy-care houseplants that require little attention. These aren't plants you can neglect because plants are living things. They may go longer without water, or they may thrive in low light, but they can't be neglected entirely. There is a big misconception and myth that these plants thrive on neglect, which isn't true. They may not die as quickly as other plants, but if you neglect them they certainly won't thrive. Top 3 Low Maintenance Plant Favorites: 1. Snake Plant (Sansevieria | Dracaena) Sansevieria has many common names, not just snake plants. It's also known as mother-in-law's tongue or viper's bowstring. In Spanish, it's also commonly called 'Lengua de Vaca' or ' cow's tongue' I guess we're too afraid to insult 'la suegra.' Scientifically Sansevierias no longer fall under the Sansevieria genus but instead have been reclassified as Dracaena Trifasciata. I still haven't embraced this change. Whatever you call it, it's a survivor! If you've never owned plants, you should start with a snake plant. I keep snake plants in my home, not just because they are low maintenance but also because they make excellent home decor. So how exactly do you take care of a snake plant? It's effortless, and they are highly adaptable to many indoor conditions. Water & Humidity: The great thing about snake plants is that they can go for extended amounts of time without water. There are few plants you can put on a watering schedule. Keep in mind where you keep your plant because it may need to be watered more often if it's in a high light area. You should water your snake plant when the potting medium/soil is completely dry, and be careful not to overwater your plant! When ready to water, make sure to water thoroughly and all around the potting medium. I like to bring my plants to the sink for a good soak and then drain them completely. I usually place it on a saucer and empty it several times until there is no water coming out of the pot or left on the saucer. Make sure to water the top and bottom parts of the leaves as well. I usually water my snake plant every couple of weeks since it's in a lower light area it takes longer for the potting medium to dry. Snake plants can also adapt to any humidity level in your home. Light Snake plants are also very adaptable when it comes to light. They can adapt to lower light conditions but keep them in medium to bright indirect light for faster growth. Potting Medium and Fertilizer Snake plants aren't fussy when it comes to potting medium or fertilizers. You can use any houseplant potting medium or fertilizer; follow the manufacture's instructions. Fertilize spring through summer. Distinctive Feature: NASA determined Snake Plants to be one of the most effective plants at naturally filtering out indoor air pollutants. NASA recommended at least two good-sized plants for every 100 sq foot of space. Propagation The great thing about snake plants is that they are easy to propagate from a leaf cutting and can be put in water for about 4-5 weeks to root. However, this can sometimes make it more difficult for cuttings to acclimate to the soil. The recommended method is to propagate by division. Separate the plant by the roots at the base and pot up the new plant in potting mix. When propagating potting new plants, make sure to water and keep moist but not wet. Now your existing plant has room to grow, and you will have new plant babies to share. 2. Pothos (Epipremnum) Pothos is another easy-care houseplant with many common names as well, like devil's ivy and hunter's robe. I love Pothos and all of the variegated and neon varieties! I think this is such an underrated and underappreciated houseplant. They make great hanging plants and look great on a bookshelf. Water and Humidity While it's not drought tolerant like snake plants, it's definitely more forgiving than other plants if you miss a few waterings. You can let it dry between waterings; water when the potting mix is completely dry. Also, don't forget to water and clean the leaves to keep away pests and allow for proper photosynthesis. Pothos will also adapt to lower humidity levels. Light For fast growth, it's best to grow in bright indirect light, although it will tolerate low-lighter conditions. Potting Medium and Fertilizer Pothos aren't fussy either when it comes to potting medium or fertilizers. You can use any houseplant potting medium or fertilizer; follow the manufacturer's instructions. Fertilize spring through summer. Propagation Pothos is one of the easiest plants to propagate. However, unlike Snake or ZZ plants, you can't propagate from a leaf cutting; you need to make sure you cut leaf, stem, and node. Start with a clean pair of shears and cut just below the nodes. Put in water, preferably a clear glass, so that you can watch the roots; make sure to keep the nodes in water. Place in a warm or humid spot with bright indirect light; this will help with root formation. You could start to see small roots as soon as a couple of weeks. You should keep the water clean and refresh it at least once a week or if it turns murky. Once roots fully form (est. 4-5 weeks), you can transfer to a potting medium. Pothos are so adaptable even water roots take easily to the soil. Distinctive Feature: Pothos is also one of the varieties identified by NASA to filter out indoor air pollutants naturally. NASA recommended at least two good-sized plants for every 100 sq foot of space. 3. ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas Zamiifolia) ZZ plants are extremely resilient! They also adapt to many indoor light and humidity conditions. They grow full and lush and can add a modern touch to any indoor space. Water & Humidity ZZ plants can also go a few weeks without watering. They have rhizomes that look like little bulbous potatoes. The rhizomes help retain water. You should still make sure to check the potting medium and water when dry. ZZ plants can also tolerate low humidity levels. Light For fast growth, it's best to grow in bright indirect light, although it will tolerate low-lighter conditions. Potting Medium and Fertilizer ZZ plants are easy when it comes to potting medium or fertilizers. You can use any houseplant potting medium or fertilizer; follow the manufacturer's instructions. Fertilize spring through summer. Propagation ZZ's can be propagated using several methods such as leaf-cutting or separating the stem and leaves with their rhizome (division.) If you have separated the stem and leaves with the rhizomes (little potatoes), you can place them directly in water for further root development or directly in the soil. This is one of the quickest ways to grow more plants from your existing mother plant. Leaf-cuttings in water For leaf cuttings, prepare your shears and cut along the stem to separate the leaves. Now you can place the leaf in water or soil. If placing in water, do not submerge the entire leaf in water. Once the cutting has grown a rhizome with roots, you can pot. Make sure to take several leaf cuttings because ZZ plants aren't as fast-growing as Pothos, so rhizome and root development can take months, and some may not take. Lef-cuttings in soil. For the soil method, you can take the leaf-cutting and place it straight into the soil. Do not put the entire leaf face down, only about 1/2 of the leaf. This method is often used by commercial growers but can be more difficult to succeed with at home because you need to keep the right balance of light and humidity, and they are slow-growing. Distinctive Feature: NASA determined ZZ plants to also be effective at naturally filtering out indoor air pollutants. NASA recommended at least two good-sized plants for every 100 sq foot of space. In conclusion, there is no reason for you to keep fake plants when these low-maintenance plants are so easy to grow and propagate! Get planting and make it real!

Let's be honest most rare plants aren't low maintenance, and these aren't snake plants; they are exotic tropicals usually from the jungles of Latin America, Asia, or Africa. However, they may seem harder than it looks and some varieties are easier than others. Some rare plants should come with a warning label, though; 'warning: may die and induce stress.' I'm not going to sugarcoat that some rare plants are hard to grow, I believe in transparency, and if you are successful with your plants, everyone is happy. Before I get into the top 3 easy(ish) rare plants, let me tell you which rare plants new plant parents should not buy as their first plant. Anthurium Warocqueanum, also known as Queen Anthurium, believe me, she's the queen! It's easy to be seduced by the long velvet leaves, but unless you have a perfect greenhouse environment with grow lights, humidifiers, and more, leave this one to more experienced collectors. Aglaonema Pictum Tricolor, also known as Aglaonema Camouflage, is another rare beauty. You may be surprised to find this on the list because Aglaonemas are usually low-maintenance plants. The reason it's on the list is that they are difficult to root. I wanted to grow them commercially but was met with hesitation from growers I've worked with in the past. If you find a rooted and established Camoflauge Aglaonema, you should be able to grow it, but usually, they are sold in juvenile form, and mature plants can be pretty costly. Shops that flip (buy and sell, but don't grow) plants may carry some of these and say they aren't hard to grow because they aren't growing from seed or cutting. I'm not knocking those shops; I'm just pragmatic. Some may also have success with them as a beginner, but growing one plant vs. being able to stably grow and trial hundreds of plants is different and reduces your success rate if harvest trials aren't successful. Below are our top 3 rare plant favorites and care tips for new plant collectors 1. Philodendron Gloriosum Philodendron Gloriosums are by far one of my favorite exotic tropical plants; it may be because they are native to Colombia, one of my favorite countries in Latin America. They add drama and give a tropical look to any space. They also add depth and height and have velvet leaves, making them even more irresistible. Philodendrons fall under the Araceae family, a diverse genera (125 and over 3k species.) Water & Humidity Water when topsoil is dry, do not keep it too moist. Philodendron Gloriosum can skip a watering (don't push it past a week without checking it) and don't require extremely high humidity like some rare plants. They do thrive in humid conditions, though. When ready to water make sure to water thoroughly and all around. I like to bring my plants to the sink for a good soak and then I let it drain completely. I usually place it on a saucer and empty it several times until there is no water coming out of the pot or left on the saucer. Light They can be grown in shadier spots in the home (not low light; lower light) but will grow faster in bright indirect light. Potting Medium & Fertilizer Like many epiphytic aroids, they need a well-draining mix; perlite, coco coir, orchid bark will do the trick. You can grow in sphagnum moss but will need to incorporate nutrients. They benefit from fertilizer throughout spring and summer because they aren't super fast growers. Use a slow-release fertilizer and/or houseplant fertilizer and make sure to follow the packaging instructions (less is more.) I recommend new plant parents begin with slow-realease fertilizers because they are more forgiving than liquid fertilizers. If you don't measure liquid fertizliers properly you could easily end up with leaf or root burn. 2. Anthurium Clarinervium You can't help but fall in love with a heart-shaped leaf plant like Anthurium Clarinervium. The veining on this rare masterpiece and heart shape makes it a must-have. I find the Clarinervium, if established (we're not talking about unrooted cuttings or seedlings here), is far easier than some other rare anthuriums. They also grow faster than their cousin Anthurium Crystallinum. Clarinerviums can actually be found readily available in some plant shops in Europe. However, they are native to Mexico - viva Mexico! Water & Humidity They need consistent watering, but make sure not to overwater or let sit in water. Anthurium Clarinerviums are also epiphytes, so they grow mainly on trees with exposed roots. If their roots sit in water they will be susceptible to root rot. Also, the reason why you want to be consistent with watering is that they are prone to leaf marks, which is only cosmetic but for some can be distressing. Remember that plants are living things, not hard goods like other decorative objects. Some markings or leaf tears are to be expected. When ready to water make sure to water thoroughly and all around. I like to bring my plants to the sink, as I mentioned, for a good soak and then I let it drain completely. I usually place it on a saucer and empty it several times until there is no water coming out of the pot or left on the saucer. Rare anthuriums do not like cold drafts and need plenty of ventilation. Poor air circulation could lead to fungal issues. Potting Medium & Fertilizer Like Philodendrons, they need a well-draining mix; perlite, coco coir, orchid bark will do the trick. You can grow in sphagnum moss but will need to incorporate nutrients. They benefit from fertilizer during the growing season as well; spring and summer. Use a slow-release fertilizer and/or houseplant fertilizer and make sure to follow the packaging instructions (less is more). For new plant parents start with slow-release fertilizer, as I mentioned above. 3. Syngonium Albo Variegatum (Syngonium Podophyllum) Also known as the arrowhead vine, this plant grows quickly and is easier than most other albo variegata varieties. Syngonium varieties in general make great houseplants, they are real givers! Syngoniums are exotic tropicals native to several parts of Latin America, from Mexico to Ecuador and Brazil. However, they are quick to acclimate to home environments. Syngonium Albos can get leggy, so if you prefer a bushier plant this may not be the best houseplant for you. You can pot several together, but it naturally grows tall and messy since they are vining plants. You can prune and encourage a bushier plant, but I prefer to leave it in it's natural form and add support for vining. Water & Humidity When ready to water make sure to water thoroughly and all around. As I mentioned, I like to bring my plants to the sink for a good soak and then I let it drain completely. I usually place it on a saucer and empty it several times until there is no water coming out of the pot or left on the saucer. Do not let the plant sit on water too long. Like most aroids, they thrive in high humidity but syngomium albo will adapt to average household temperatures without needing a humidifier (provided your home has above freezing temps.) Light Syngonium Albo will grow well in most light conditions, except extremely low light. They do best in medium to bring indirect light. Be careful with too much sun exposure as this can turn your albo leaves brown or burn them. Potting Medium & Fertilizer Like many epiphytic aroids, they need a well-draining mix; perlite, coco coir, orchid bark will do the trick. You can grow in sphagnum moss but will need to incorporate nutrients. Use a slow-release fertilizer and/or houseplant fertilizer and make sure to follow the packaging instructions (less is more.) As mentioned, if you are new to rare houseplants start with a slow-release.

For many, plants were a magic little green pill that helped us get through lockdown in 2020. So, you bought a plant, or two, or three, during the pandemic, and now what? I was off the grid—or should I say gram—for a few months during the pandemic. I went back online a few months later and was shocked, really shocked, at the number of new plant accounts created on Instagram during COVID-19. One account, @pandemic_plant_parent_ got me through some rough days during COVID-19 with her fun plant puns and videos. For many, plants were a way to deal with the isolation of lockdown. Plants are scientifically proven to help improve our mental health. It's no surprise that people turned to plants to help cope with pandemic stress. Also, during the early days of lockdown, only grocery stores and home improvement stores were open. Plant sales surged at big box stores, and growers couldn't keep up with demand; online sales also sky-rocketed. The plant industry experienced Black Friday type demand. I wondered if people realized the responsibility of being a plant parent. Are we going to see plants in the trash once COVID-19 restrictions are fully lifted? Is it going to be like when people release their exotic iguanas or snakes lose after realizing they have gotten too big or can't care for them? Many pandemic plant parents are now concerned about going on vacation and leaving their plant babies behind. The responsibility of caring for a plant can feel overwhelmingly big, like a new puppy big! 5 Tips for Dealing with Pandemic Plant Parent Anxiety If caring for your new plant baby begins to overwhelm you, don't fret. Below are five tips to help you with your new parenting anxiety. 1. Quarantine your new plant baby when you bring it home The plant may look healthy and beautiful, but you don't know what's crawling in the potting medium. It could be a fun little tropical friend like a lizard from Florida. 2. Check your plants weekly or bi-weekly to see if they need watering Depending on the species and location in your home, some plants may need more water than others. For example, a plant in a south-facing window will probably need more water than the same plant in your bathroom. 3. Don't overwater. Don't do it Some people water their plants with bottled water. I say you keep that bottle for yourself and drink up every time you get the urge to water your plant. Overwatering is the leading cause of plant death in the US. Many aroids and hoyas can go a week or two without water depending on where you keep them. Check the soil or medium using the finger test or a moisture meter; make sure the medium is completely dry at least 3-4 inches before you water. I prefer to let many of my Aroids dry out completely. 4. Don't be a helicopter plant parent It's ok to check on your plants and admire them daily. But don't pull them out of the nursery pot, constantly checking the roots. New plants need to acclimate to their environment, and taking them out of the nursery pot after arriving in their new home is like waking up a baby early from their nap. 5. Don't repot Your plant has been on a long journey—unless you live in a tropical climate—from the jungle to your home. It may experience some shipping stress from being in a box and exposed to fluctuating temperatures and lighting or no light at all. Taking it out of its nursery pot (it's home where it has been growing) can add even more stress. The same goes for plants purchased at big-box retailers. They have been picked, staged in a packing facility, put on a dark truck, and shipped often miles from your home to the store. Most plants can grow comfortably in their pot for years. How to Care for Your Plants When Going on Vacation: 1. Provide Plenty of Humidity Make sure to check the thermostat before you leave, and don’t set it to cold or hot (75 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal.) Humidity Hacks Group your plants together Create a pebble tray by placing your potted plant on a water-filled tray or saucer with pebbles. Set your plants on top of the rocks making sure the water is just below the top of the pebbles. Fill your bathtub with 1-2inches of water and set your plants in the tub. Make sure your plants have plenty of light or at least the same amount of light they were getting before. 2. Use Plant Wicks Use any type of string about 1-2inches wide; shoelaces will even do the trick. You can either stick the string into the plant and let it hang out of the nursery pot into a water-filled saucer or pot with a reservoir. 3. Water Before You Go Make sure to check your plants before you leave on vacation and give them a drink. Don't leave dry plants behind; it is best to leave plants a little moist (not wet) if your trip is delayed or willfully extended.